The Bone Church of Kutna Hora

The suburbs of Kutna Hora, located 1.5 hours by train from the Czech Republican capital of Prague, boast of a rather unique Sedlec Ossuary, as is called in common parlance, the ‘Bone Church’!

Church of all Saints Cemetery

Located beneath the Church of all Saints’ Cemetery, the building also houses a chapel upstairs for those who want to worship. One of the most sensational attractions of this UNESCO World Heritage Site that is Kutna Hora, the macabre spookiness of this place will nevertheless leave you amazed!

History of the Bone Church

Offerings of coins

Its origins date way back to the 13^th century when the abbot of the Cistercian monastery of Sedlec returned from a mission from Golgotha, the site of Jesus’ crucifixion and carried with him a small amount of earth that he had recovered from this holy place. He sprinkled it over the abbey cemetery surrounding the Chapel of all Saints. As words of this saintly act got out, the site became a desirable burial ground all across central Europe. Wealthy and poor alike got drawn towards it.

In the course of time, following the Black Death in the mid-14^th century and Hussite wars in the early 15^th century, excessive burials led to the enlargement of the cemetery. 

Around 1400, construction of a Gothic church was undertaken in the center of the cemetery whose lower level was used as an ossuary for all the mass remains unearthed.

Heaps of os and skulls!

 

Around 40,000 current burials were exhumed and heaps of bones and skulls now lied on the site until no one knew what to do with them! The following century saw the task of rearrangement of these skulls and bones being given to a half blind monk. All he could think of was just re-pile these ghoulish remains one on top of other along the sides of the crypt, giving it better yet not a finished form. 

The present-day Sedlec Ossuary

Artistic rearrangement of the exhumed remains!

Despite getting goosebumps all the way while climbing down those 25-30 steps into the crypt, it is hard to not be amazed by the artistry of this place.

Goosebumps eh!?

The décor on the arches!

The credit goes to a local woodcarver by the name of František Rint. Hired by the local House of Schwarzenberg, he was tasked with putting these heaps of os (bones) in order. While at it - pardon the pun - he buried himself in the new assignment and dexterously brought together various shapes of bits of skeleton at his disposal. What was astounding was the fact that the place had such a spooky effect on everyone present that no one was talking in a normal tone! Whispers were all I could hear!

Why Sedlec Ossuary is exclusive?

As you climb down the entrance, you can see Rint’s signature, also written in bones on the chapel’s right hand wall.

The colossal chandelier!

As my eyes scanned the roof of the museum, I saw a colossal chandelier garlanded with and displaying every bone of the human body, one of its chief characteristics besides its grandeur.. It was as if afterlife was looking down upon us from above. 

Ghoul!

The Schwarzenberg coat-of-arms!

 Also displayed here by the artist is the Schwarzenberg coat-of-arms made with bones on the left hand side of the chapel. The chapel walls, cornices are all decked with skulls and bones of all sizes that give this rather ghastly concept a tad aesthetic and an exquisite touch. The very uniqueness of such an exhibit is what makes this Ossuary a must visit.

How to make travel plans?

For more information on admission fees, timings, you can visit https://www.sedlec.info/en/

Getting there : Sedlec is located around 2.5 kms from Kutna Hora. If you do not wish to walk, a tourist bus and a local train connects the city center of Kutna Hora and the church of St. Barbara with Sedlec. 

Tip : We chose to take the train but owing to some technical problem, it halted at Sedlec itself and we had to walk the entirety of the distance till Kutna Hora city center. This is highly recommended for the forest trail is stunning! The greenery all around you, birds chirping and the hustle of the stream flowing nearby transport you into some parallel universe. The distance isn’t much so you can work up an appetite before you hit the city center and can grab a quick snack before proceeding to the church of St. Barbara.

For more information on what to see around Kutna Hora, you can visit https://www.czechtourism.com/tourists/trips/a-kutna-hora-treasury-of-czech-lands/.

For transport in and around Czech Republic and other practical info, you can visit https://www.czechtourism.com/a/transport/.