The 7th morning brought a lot
of apprehensions along as we were told umpteen times that this, was THE ultimate
challenge. See what happens when you expect? The reality might be different but
your inhibitions are half-a-battle-lost, even before you began. The first stop
was the petrol pump, right in the heart of Leh. The town was just waking up and
shutters were upped as we waited for fuel. It was here that we saw a lot of
riders and less of four-wheelers and wondered whether this would be the case
right up to Khardung La. But of course not! Again, we emptied our bowels (this might seem repetitive but if not done,
can land you in deep trouble as insufficient amounts of water consumption will
surely lead to cramps…not a good idea when on a bike) and asked for
directions! Seemed idiotic as we went “Yeh Khardung La ka raasta kahaan se
hai!?” Well, we realized that half the traffic was headed there and followed.
As we started scaling up, you can
actually see a major part of the road that spirals up. A Bolero its usual size
will look a toy-Bolero if you have good eyesight and manage to gaze that far up.
Exciting and scary at the same time as we were not in a Bolero! Sunny had
warned me, “Do not run around or laugh like you normally do, there is less of
oxygen up there so you might exhaust yourself!” heheh…similar instructions to
Hemu. You see, that’s why you need to travel with like-minded people. Good or
bad eyesight, it’s the vision that matters! Anyway, so we started scaling and
the road in the first few kilometers’ stretch is excellent, to say the least. The
trajectory is S-shaped no doubt, but the roads are wide enough for two-way
traffic. Although, there was hardly anyone descending at that hour! A common
observation when riding in passes is the 10 kilometer stretch; 5 kms just
before and 5 just after a pass; which is usually challenging. It’s tough to
scale and being at a height, in a land like this, snow-melting hinders (smooth)
riding, so to say the least.
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| :) |
So we started the climb and were amazed
at the sheer beauty of the mountains and what nestled amidst. Not much really
and yet so much! The rock formations are bare and you see the same stony,
barren kind of images…look up the horizon and it will be lined with snow-capped
peaks with sparse vegetation seen somewhere in the distance! I waited for air
to get thinner and some visual breathing trouble or other acclimatization
issues! There were none! We did take 2 halts while climbing up (it’s around an hour and a half journey, add
thirty minutes to that if you are on a bike) and captured some beautiful
photographs and moments.
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| In complete submission! |
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| Main aur mera comb...aksar yeh kiya karte hai! |
Lined up our helmets as if bowing down to the Almighty
and Capt Sanjay combed his hair with his tiny valuable orange-colored brush,
all against the wind! As I see these photos today, they have done complete
justice to how clear-minded, clean and happy we were feeling! We could have
spent an entire day at such a remote spot but had Khardung La calling.
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| Peek-a-boo! |
Back on the road and we reached South
Pullu and took a break at the checkpost. SS did some formalities and we began
the ascent to the one of the highest motorable roads in the world. Yes, ONE of
the highest. The elevation is not 18,380 feet as claimed by the Himank milestone
but 17, 770 feet. Anyway, does not take away the glory of reaching the top as
this in itself, was one of the best things we have done so far in our lives! With
the last 10 kilometers to go, the road is mainly dirt, gravel and stones and
although we could not visibly see any effects of the air getting thinner, SS
got the most tired on this particular day and had to take frequent halts while
scaling down the Nubra valley on the other side.
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| Enfin! |
The last 3..2..1..kilometer saw an
adrenalin rush like none and nowhere before and we finally reached the top and
celebrated the ride! Similar eruptions of anxiety and sheer “Yaaay we did it’
echoed the place, manned by the Indian Army. This huge yellow Himank milestone
is a perfect take-thy-pic spot for memories, if nothing else, and we parked our
carriers too, without whom, getting there would not have been possible!
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